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Let’s build a countertop!!! Before getting started, I actually asked ChatGPT to show me what the laundry room would look like with a wooden countertop versus a marble one, and the results definitely helped me visualize it. I was torn between doing a faux marble finish (like I did in my pantry) or keeping it simple with a stained wood top. The marble contact paper can look amazing, but it’s also risky if it doesn’t go on perfectly… so I had to think this one through! What do you think?? Is the wood too much and too dark? Side note: I love how ChatGPT puts random items in the photos! hahaha
First, I needed to add a support to the left wall so the countertop would have something sturdy to rest on, since the right side will sit directly on top of the cabinet.
I used a 1×4 scrap piece of primed pine for the wall support and screwed it directly into the studs for a secure hold, I determined it’s placement on the wall with a level to be level with the cabinet on the right side. Later, I ended up taking it back off to cut the end at an angle so it wouldn’t show as much once the countertop was installed. Small detail, but it makes a big difference in the finished look!
I started by cutting a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood down to size for the countertop. Plywood is my go-to for projects like this, it’s sturdy, budget-friendly, and easy to work with. Plus, once it’s finished, you’d never guess it started as a plain sheet of plywood! I ripped it down on the garage floor propped up on some 2x4s and used my circular saw, some wood clamps and a straight edge.
Then I did a quick test fit to make sure the countertop was going to fit just right. Always worth double-checking before moving on, nothing worse than realizing something’s off when you get further into your project!
Next, I added a 1×2 piece of primed pine to the front edge of the plywood countertop using my brad nailer. This simple trick makes the countertop look thicker and more finished, turning that 3/4-inch plywood into what looks like a full 1.5-inch slab, just like a standard countertop. It’s an easy way to give a budget-friendly project a high end look!
Then came the big decision, should I make this a lift-up countertop or add a hatch? Since our washer/dryer combo has the lint trap on top, I needed to make sure I’d still have easy access to it. I went back and forth for a while, trying to figure out which option would be more functional and still look good in the space and be doable to build, the hatch made me nervous because I wasn’t sure I could pull it off.
In the end, I knew the hatch was the best option, because let’s be honest, lifting up the entire countertop every time I needed to clean the lint trap would get old fast. The hatch would make it easy to access the top of the washer/dryer without sacrificing the clean, built-in look I wanted. So, I brought the countertop back outside and decided it was time to cut out the hatch!
To make the cut, I decided to drop the blade of my circular saw right into the center of where the hatch would go. I knew the circular saw would give me a much straighter cut than a jigsaw. I didn’t want the hatch to just be a corner piece, I wanted to leave some solid countertop attached on the left side so it stayed connected to the main section (if that makes sense!?).
But then… disaster struck. The sawhorses collapsed mid-cut, and the entire countertop went flying! Thankfully, no toes were harmed in the making of this project, though it was a close call since I was wearing flip-flops (not my finest safety moment). So, learn from my mistake: do as I say, not as I do, wear closed-toe shoes when using power tools!
So, after that little sawhorse incident, I grabbed my jigsaw and finished the rest of the cut. It wasn’t quite as straight as the circular saw would’ve been, but at that point I was just happy to be making progress without losing any toes!
Once I got the first section cut with the jigsaw, I brought the circular saw back out to make the cuts going in the other direction. I figured I’d redeem myself after the sawhorse fiasco, and this time, I made sure everything was a lot more stable before starting!
Then I finished off the corner cuts with the jigsaw again. Unfortunately, when the last cut went through, the piece broke loose and fell away from the 1×2 on the front edge of the countertop. Not exactly what I was going for, but hey, that’s DIY for you!
So, I went ahead and cut through the rest of the 1×2, and the whole right section fell off with it. At this point it’s just laughable. Then when I looked at the cut, it was terrible. Crooked, rough, and definitely not the clean line I was going for. And of course, this was my last large piece of plywood, so there was no starting over without a Home Depot trip and more money. Classic DIY moment where you just have to laugh, take a deep breath, and figure out how to make it work.
So, I decided to make the hatch opening a little bigger to clean up those rough, uneven cuts. I also trimmed off the left edge entirely and grabbed a smaller piece of scrap plywood I had lying around, it just happened to be the perfect size for the new hatch! Sometimes the best fixes come from the scrap pile. This time I used a straight edge and some clamps!
Tyler was there for moral support, haha! Every DIY project needs a cheerleader (and someone to make sure you don’t throw the saw across the yard when things go sideways, it also helps that he makes me laugh when I’m frustrated!).
This time, I wasn’t taking any chances, I used both wood glue and my brad nailer to attach the 1×2 piece of primed pine to the front edge. Solid, secure, and definitely not going anywhere this round!
I decided to go with marble contact paper for the countertop, because I realized the wood look might feel a little too dark for this small space. Don’t get me wrong, I love dark-stained oak, but in this room, it would’ve been a bit much. Honestly, I put this project off for a few weeks after cutting down the countertop because I was nervous about tackling it (contact paper can be tricky!), but I finally worked up the courage and got started!
I started by wiping the surface down with a tack cloth to remove any sawdust or dirt, because the last thing you want under contact paper is a random bump or piece of debris ruining your smooth finish!
Once the surface was clean, I started attaching the marble contact paper, sticking it down a little at a time and smoothing as I went. When it was partially on, I cut it to size and wrapped it around the edges and corners just like wrapping a present. It definitely takes some patience (and a few deep breaths), but it’s worth it for that smooth, seamless finish!
The corners under the 1×2 trim were definitely a little tricky, but I think I pulled it off! It took some careful cutting, folding and smoothing to get everything to lay flat, but once it was done, it looked surprisingly professional, especially for a faux marble countertop done with contact paper!
Then it was time for the fun part, a test fit! I brought the countertop inside to see how it would look in the space, and honestly, that moment is always so satisfying. After all the cutting, sanding, and sticky contact paper chaos, seeing it finally come together in the room makes it all worth it! I didn’t have enough contact paper to cover the bottom of the plywood countertop, but that will never be seen so it didn’t bother me!
Next, it was time to attach the hatch! I covered that piece in the same marble contact paper so it would blend right in, then attached it to the main countertop using gold butt hinges. I figured that would be the easiest solution, and honestly, I don’t mind that the hinges stick out a little.
Since I ran out of contact paper, I didn’t have quite enough to cover the bottom side of the hatch. I considered leaving it like that, but that’s the part you see every single time you open it, and I knew it would bother me. I even considered painting it white, but I just couldn’t! So, I went ahead and ordered another roll just to finish off that little square. Totally worth it for a clean, finished look (and my peace of mind).
You might’ve noticed a tile backsplash in the photos above, that’s because while I was waiting for the marble contact paper to arrive, I decided to go ahead and start tiling! So, let’s talk about that! I used MusselBound, which is basically a double-sided tile adhesive mat that replaces traditional mortar. It’s super easy to work with, too! You just can’t use it in a shower or on a floor.
I started by rolling the MusselBound out along the back wall and then cutting it to size with a razor knife. It’s super easy to work with, kind of like applying a giant sticker to your wall, just a lot stickier!
I got as much of the MusselBound up as I could while standing on a stool, but when I tried leaning on the countertop, it flexed a bit, so I called in backup. Tyler finished the rest for me since he’s tall enough to reach the top of the wall without balancing on anything. Perks of having a 6’4″ helper on standby!
I found this gorgeous tile at Home Depot and knew it was the one! It has a neutral color with just the right amount of subtle texture, and the best part? It was actually affordable compared to a lot of the other options I looked at. A total win for style and budget!
Before sticking any tile to the wall, I went down a Pinterest rabbit hole looking for pattern ideas, I didn’t want to do a plain subway layout this time. I found a few fun options and ended up laying the tiles out on my kitchen floor to see the patterns in person. It’s one thing to scroll through ideas online, but seeing it laid out right in front of you makes a huge difference!
These tiles actually came with a thin wax coating on the front to protect them from scratching each other in the box during shipping, I actually thought it was glue at first! That is great in theory, but kind of a pain to remove! I used a plastic razor blade to scrape off the wax, and a little warm water helped loosen it up. Apparently, a lot of tilers just install the tiles as-is and wipe the wax off with warm water afterward, but I wanted mine clean and ready to go before sticking them on the wall.
With MusselBound, you only want to remove the paper backing as you go, don’t peel it all off at once! If you expose too much and can’t finish right away, dust can settle on it and compromise the stickiness. So I worked in small sections, peeling and tiling as I moved along. I started right in the middle of the wall, measuring and marking the exact center before placing the edge of my first tile there. That way, the pattern would stay even and balanced on both sides.
The MusselBound kit actually came with a few different-sized spacers, which was really nice! You only need a handful because once you’ve got a tile placed where you want it, you just pull the spacers out and reuse them for the next section, no need to leave them in place like you would with traditional mortar. Normally, you’d need a whole bucket full of spacers for a tile project, but not with this method! I also used my level to double-check that each new row was even with the one below it, adding horizontal tiles in between the vertical tiles to create the pattern I fell in love with!
I decided to leave the edge pieces for later because, honestly, getting the tile saw out is a whole ordeal on its own. Sometimes it’s better to save the messy part for later, especially when you’re finally on a roll and don’t want to lose momentum! Can I just say, I LOVE the color variation of this tile!!
I did eventually drag out my awesome tile saw, and I have to say, it makes the job so easy! This thing can do miter cuts, and the base slides to make cutting tiles super simple and precise. Totally worth the setup hassle and cost of it when you see how clean those cuts turn out!
Now, here’s the thing, when you’re using a tile saw, it obviously makes the tiles wet, and you can’t stick wet tiles onto MusselBound or they won’t adhere properly. So normally, you’d have to wait for them to dry… but since I’m not known for my patience, I came up with a faster solution! I set my oven to 170°F and baked the tiles for about 10 minutes until they were dry. Worked perfectly! And yes, it felt a little weird baking tile instead of cookies, but desperate times, right?
Once I got all the edge pieces cut and in place, it felt so good! There’s nothing quite like that moment when everything finally lines up and the project starts looking finished. Totally worth every minute (and every baked tile)!
Now for the exhausting part, grouting! Seriously, it’s a full arm and core workout. I used a white grout to keep the tile looking clean and neutral so it blends seamlessly with the space. My goal was for the oak cabinets to stay the star of the show while the backsplash adds texture without stealing the spotlight.
I started by taping everything off so the grout wouldn’t get on the countertop or cabinets. I used painter’s tape with the plastic attached to cover the entire counter, it’s one of my favorite time-savers for messy projects like this. It sticks well, protects everything underneath, and makes cleanup so much easier once you’re done!
I used a rubber float to spread the grout across the tiles, pressing it into all the joints as I went. I use premixed grout because it’s just easier and saves time and the grout is consistent throughout the bucked vs. being runnier on top as it was with my experience with grout that you have to mix yourself. It costs a little more but 100% worth it to me! And instead of using the typical yellow sponge for cleanup, I swear by these blue microfiber sponges! They pick up the excess grout so much better and leave the tiles way cleaner with fewer streaks. Total game-changer if you’re tiling!
Then came the best part, the satisfying tape removal! There’s just something so rewarding about peeling away all that painter’s tape and seeing those clean lines between the backsplash and countertop. It’s the little DIY victories that make all the hard work worth it!
And this is how it’s looking so far! All that’s left is caulking. I had to wait for the grout to dry before climbing back up there to tape everything off again. Funny enough, I don’t usually bother with tape when I paint, but for caulk? Always. It’s the secret to getting that perfectly crisp caulk line every time! You can see though that I didn’t caulk where the countertop is, that is because the countertop needs to be able to move in and out so we can access the water shut off behind it.
Now, let’s talk about that air vent we removed earlier. I knew I needed to replace the lighting in here anyway since the old fixture was hanging down way too close to the cabinets. So, we found the perfect solution, a flush mount light with a built-in vent! It kills two birds with one stone: better lighting and proper ventilation, all in one sleek fixture.
First, we had to cut a new hole in the ceiling because the original one didn’t line up with the ceiling joists. So Tyler climbed up into the attic and used a drywall knife to cut out a new circle for the vent light. It definitely wasn’t the easiest job, but we wanted it perfectly centered and properly supported, worth the extra effort!
Tyler ended up cutting a rectangle around the old hole since it would be way easier to patch a rectangle than try to match a perfect circle. The only downside? That meant I had to patch it, and we’ve already established that drywall patching isn’t exactly my strong suit. But hey, I gave it my best shot! As long as the light is on you can’t really tell that it wasn’t a great patch job! haha
Now, let’s move on to the drying rack I built, made almost entirely out of scrap wood! You know I love a good scrap pile project, and this one turned out both functional and surprisingly pretty. It’s the perfect addition to the laundry room and a great reminder that you don’t always need new materials to create something custom.
I started with some 1×2 primed pine and built a simple frame using my corner clamps, wood glue, and brad nails. Nothing fancy, just a solid base to get the structure started. I love projects like this because they come together quickly and use up leftover materials that might otherwise go to waste!
Then I took the frame out to the driveway and set it up on my makeshift workbench, because sometimes you just have to work with what you’ve got! Using my router, I carved out a small groove along the back so the center panel would sit flush inside the frame.
For the center panel, I used some leftover beadboard paneling I had on hand. I cut it down to size on the table saw, making sure to trim evenly from both sides so the beadboard stripes lined up perfectly and didn’t get cut off awkwardly on the end. Little details like that make such a big difference in how the final piece looks!
To make the panel fit inside the routed section of the frame, I had to trim the corners a bit. I used my jigsaw to round them out so they’d slide right into place.
Once the corners were rounded, I dropped the panel right into place, it fit perfectly! I secured it with wood glue and a few brad nails to keep everything snug and sturdy. Simple, quick, and super satisfying when everything lines up just right.
Next, I needed to build an interior frame for the drying rack, the part that would actually move and hold the rods. Hopefully that makes sense! Basically, it’s a second frame that fits inside the main one so the rack can open and close instead of being fixed in place.
Of course, in true DIY fashion, I ran into a small hiccup. When I built the interior frame, I accidentally measured one side a half inch too short, so it wasn’t going to fit properly and it was lopsided. And, naturally, that was the last of my scrap wood of that sort. So off to Home Depot I went for another 1x2x8 piece of primed pine. I swear, every project includes at least one “emergency supply run.”
Once I got the new wood home, I realized I needed to trim the 1x2s down width-wise so the inner frame would sit properly inside the main one and stay flush with the outside edge. You can see in the photo below how it stuck out too far before I adjusted it. This will ensure the butt hinges attach properly.
Then I sanded down the pieces and assembled them just like I did with the outer frame, using wood glue, corner clamps, and my brad nailer. It came together quickly and fit perfectly inside the main frame once everything was lined up.
Before attaching the inner frame to the outer one, I needed to drill holes along the inside of the frame for the rods to sit in. It’s way easier to do this before everything’s assembled. However, I probably should have done this step before putting that inner frame together all the way. It would have been easier so the rods could slide right into place without having to wrestle with awkward angles. I glued the rods into place.
Instead of trying to paint everything with a brush and squeeze around all the rods and corners, I broke out my paint sprayer, and I’m so glad I did! It made the whole process so much faster and gave a smooth, even finish in just a few minutes. The right tool really does make all the difference!
Once the paint was dry, I attached the butt hinges to connect the inner frame to the outer one and bring the whole drying rack together. It’s always such a good feeling when everything lines up and starts to look like an actual, finished piece instead of just a pile of wood!
It was a little tricky to attach by myself, so I called in some help, Mia held the frame steady while I finished securing the hinges. It definitely made the job easier (and way less frustrating) having an extra set of hands.
And of course… once I finally got it all put together, one side started squeaking and rubbing against the inside of the frame. Ugh! After all that careful measuring and aligning, there’s always that one little thing that refuses to cooperate.
I ended up sanding down that corner a bit, gave it a quick touch-up with paint, and now it works perfectly! To finish it off, I attached some antique gold chains with small nails to support the rods when the drying rack is open. The gold ties in beautifully with the other hardware in the room and adds just the right touch of charm and character.
I had to measure very carefully before hanging the drying rack, because on the other side of this wall is my pantry. During that remodel, I cut into the drywall and added a shelf between the studs, so I couldn’t just start drilling wherever I wanted! I needed to make sure I was screwing into the studs themselves, not straight through the middle of that pantry shelf. I actually factored that into my measurements when deciding how wide to make the drying rack in the first place.
Next, I drilled a few holes through the outer frame so I could countersink the screws inside the wood, not just flush with it. This way, the screw heads sit below the surface, making it easier to fill and cover later for a cleaner, more seamless finish once everything’s installed.
Now I just need to fill those holes! But since I wanted the option to remove the screws later if I ever needed to, I decided to use wooden plugs instead of filler. They’ll cover the screw heads nicely while still letting me access them down the road if I ever have to take the rack off the wall. Functional and pretty, my favorite kind of DIY solution! I just had to lightly hammer them into place.
Then I gave the plugs a quick coat of paint to match the frame (Accessible Beige by Sherwin-Williams), and just like that, it was done! It’s always the smallest details that make the biggest difference and pull the whole project together. Also, I didn’t mention the latch I put on the top to hold it closed while it’s not in use. Don’t have that pictured but it was pretty easy to install.
Back when we turned our hall closet into a built-in saltwater aquarium and cat litter box area, I added a frame after we cut out the drywall and a stud. Apparently, I didn’t make that frame quite big enough, and I didn’t realize it until I was stenciling the ceiling! So I added a small piece of wood to fill the gap and painted it to blend in. But once I knew it was there, I couldn’t just leave it… so of course, I had to fix it properly.
Fixed! Now no one will ever know… except for all of y’all, of course—haha!
Now we’re down to just a few more projects in this laundry room! In Part 4, I’ll be sharing how I learned to build raised panel cabinet doors out of oak, where to find oak boards for way less than what they cost at Home Depot or Lowe’s, and how I added another organization drawer (or two!). Then it’ll finally be time to put everything back and see this space completely finished, can’t wait to show you!
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