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Now that our laundry room is stripped down to its bare bones, it’s time to bring it back to life with custom cabinets! I sketched out two possible layouts before getting started. The first design (on the left) maximizes storage space and avoids the risk of a countertop turning into a “catch-all” zone. The second design (on the right) includes a countertop that’s perfect for folding clothes, as long as it stays clutter-free, along with open shelves that add a beautiful, functional touch.
We originally planned to go with an LG washer and dryer tower unit so we could maximize floor-to-ceiling storage on the right side of the laundry room. Since I have both a Tineco vacuum and mop with fairly large charging bases, I was tired of keeping them in the hallway. My solution was to build a custom cabinet with a pull-out drawer to store and charge them neatly out of sight.
But then we started researching washer and dryer combos and realized we really liked the idea of an all-in-one unit. At first, we decided on the GE model after watching this review video and a few others. We even went to see it in person, and it happened to be on sale, which made it even more tempting. A couple of days later, though, the price had jumped by several hundred dollars. After more research, we learned that the LG combo was just as good (and that the Samsung option didn’t have the best reviews). When we compared the GE and LG side by side, the LG stood out because it was actually about six inches shorter. Since I wanted to build a countertop over it and I’m on the shorter side, that difference mattered, even with the LG, the countertop would hit about shoulder height, but the GE would have been even taller and less practical. I did like that the GE had the lint trap on the front vs. the top like the LG. But sometimes you have to compromise. So I drew up a new set of plans with measurements.
I even described to ChatGPT exactly how I wanted the space to look and uploaded a picture of the laundry room. It generated a rendering that was almost identical to what I had envisioned!
Tyler went to pick it up as I was gone on a trip for my flight attendant job.
Once we brought the washer/dryer combo home and knew it was officially ours, it was time to start the build. I brought the Tineco vacuum and mop into the laundry room to figure out how much space they would take up and to decide whether they should face forward or to the side. I also thought about which position would make it easiest to slide them out and access the dirt collection area.
I decided that having the Tineco units facing forward would be the best option. They fit a little slimmer that way, leaving plenty of room for the washer/dryer combo. Facing forward also makes it much easier to access the back dirt compartment compared to having them turned to the side.
I started by taking measurements and cutting down a 2×4 base for the cabinets to sit on. Building this kind of platform keeps the cabinets from sitting directly on the ground and also makes it easy to add a finished baseboard across the front. After removing the existing baseboards, I secured the 2×4 frame to the wall studs, using 2.5in screws and my stud finder (which also detects electrical wiring) to make sure everything was safely anchored.
Next, I started cutting down the plywood to size, using a long straight board as a guide, wood clamps, and my circular saw to get accurate cuts. I measured so the front of the floor cabinets would come out as far as the washer/dryer, leaving just enough space for the vacuum and mop combo without blocking the doorway or making it difficult to go in and out of the room.
I like building my cabinets with pocket holes because it makes the process strong and simple. There are inexpensive pocket hole jigs available, and I used one for a long time. But I eventually upgraded to the Kreg Foreman, and it’s become my absolute favorite tool next to my battery operated brad nailer. If you use pocket holes as much as I do, the Kreg Foreman makes the job so much faster and easier!
When I assemble cabinets, I always start by making sure the pocket holes are placed on sides that won’t be visible. For this build, I accounted for the cabinet width by insetting the top and bottom panels into the side panels, which meant the pocket holes ended up on the top and bottom edges, facing outward instead of inside.
Once everything was lined up, I applied Gorilla wood glue to the raw plywood edges (I use a handy GluBot that lets you squeeze glue from the top without having to turn the bottle upside down, seriously a time saver!). After applying glue, I used a corner clamp to hold the pieces together. Once they were secure, I added a few 1.25-inch brad nails using my amazing battery operated brad nail gun, into the sides to keep everything steady as I screwed the panels together with pocket hole screws. The brad nails are especially helpful because sometimes the pocket hole screws can cause the wood to shift slightly when tightened. Placing the nails about an inch away from where the screws go helps prevent that and keeps the cabinet square.
Once the sides, top, and bottom were assembled, I added a few back pieces along the top and bottom. These strips help keep the cabinet square and provide a solid surface for securing it to the wall. You could also choose to install a full back panel if you prefer not to see the drywall when the cabinet is open, but that doesn’t bother me, and leaving it open saves on materials.
I dragged the cabinet, nearly as tall as I am, into the laundry room and set it in place on the base.
I ran into a small problem I hadn’t anticipated: the dryer vent was located right behind the lower back panel, which kept the cabinet from sitting flush against the wall. On top of that, I didn’t want to block it off completely. Even though we don’t need the dryer vent for the washer/dryer combo, we thought it was best to keep it accessible in case a future homeowner wants to install a tower unit, or if we ever need to reach it ourselves. So, I pulled the cabinet back out and cut an opening in the back panel where the vent sits. Once that was done, the cabinet slid into place perfectly.
Next, I moved on to building the cabinet that fits between the one I had just installed and the washer/dryer combo. This cabinet is the same height as the laundry unit but narrower to fit the space. I prefer to build my cabinets one at a time rather than cutting down all the plywood pieces at once. That way I can double-check my measurements as I go, ensuring each cabinet fits perfectly in its spot and I don’t waste plywood.
I’m using oak plywood for any cabinet panels that will be visible, since the face frame and doors will also be oak and I want everything to match. For the hidden areas, like the cabinet tops and bottoms, I opted for the less expensive sanded plywood. In my area, the price difference is about $65 for a sanded 4×8 sheet versus around $80 for the nicer oak plywood. That cost can add up quickly when you’re building multiple cabinets, so it makes sense to save where you can on the pieces that won’t be seen.
I brought the next, smaller cabinet piece into the laundry room and made sure it fit properly in the space. For this cabinet, I didn’t add a full solid top or back panel, just smaller support pieces, since I’ll be installing a countertop over it later.
Tyler helped me install the larger cabinet since he could easily reach above it and guide me with the stud finder on how far back the studs were so I knew exactly where to place the screws. Luckily I can fit in the cabinet!
Next, I stained the top of the large cabinet, just the section that would remain visible so I didn’t waste product. I also stained the smaller cabinet ahead of installation, working in the middle of my kitchen to avoid accidentally getting stain on the walls. For both pieces, I used my new favorite stain color, Spice Brown by DuraSeal, and I’m completely obsessed with how rich and warm it looks. I prefer staining with medical-grade gloves and a paper towel rather than using a traditional brush-and-wipe method.
Once the stain was dry, I installed the smaller cabinet. I clamped it to the larger cabinet, making sure the fronts were perfectly flush, and then secured them together with 1.25-inch screws. I double-checked that the screws were short enough not to poke through the other side.
Once those two cabinets were installed, we were eager to get the LG washer/dryer in place to make sure everything fit. Before doing that, I needed to finish the baseboards. Instead of buying pre-made trim, I made my own custom baseboards out of oak to surround the oak cabinet. I started with 1×6 oak boards and ripped them down lengthwise on my table saw to about 4.25 inches. This height covered the 2×4 base and extended just past the face frame for a clean look. To elevate the design, I used my router to add a decorative edge along the top, giving the baseboard a finished style rather than looking like a plain 1x board.
Before installation, I sealed the baseboards with my favorite sealant, General Finishes Poly in Satin. This gives them protection in case the washer/dryer ever leaks.
I installed the side baseboard piece using my brad nailer with 1.5-inch nails. I’m holding off on attaching the front piece until the face frame is built, so I can make sure everything lines up and fits together perfectly.
I also trimmed down the wall baseboard I had removed earlier and reinstalled it. To be safe, I used my stud finder to locate the studs before nailing it back in place. I secured it with 1.25-inch brad nails since there’s a water line behind that wall, and I wanted to be sure I was fastening into studs without risking hitting the plumbing. Then I caulked along the wall baseboard (not the oak cabinet baseboard). I say this every time, but always remember to use PAINTABLE caulk for painting projects! If you don’t your paint will bead up on the caulk and ruin your project!
Then we moved the LG unit inside. We were a little worried it might not fit through the angled doorway on the left, but luckily it slid in without any issues. We got it hooked up right away and even ran our first load that same night!
Next, it was time to build more cabinets. I measured the space from the top of the tall cabinet up to the ceiling, but I planned to leave about 3–4 inches of wiggle room. That gap will give me space to add crown molding later for a finished look.
This cabinet will have plywood shelves inside. Before installing them, I added edge banding to the front edges to give the shelves a more finished look. Side note: this is the only time I ever use an iron, haha!
Of course, we have to keep things fun in the middle of exhausting projects! At one point, my husband decided to “help” by pinching my butt while I was inside the cabinet screwing in shelves, and another time I caught myself singing into the GluBot and dancing around the garage.
I stained that cabinet out in the garage before Tyler got home, so he could help me lift it into place later, it’s huge! I don’t stain the insides of my cabinets because I actually like keeping the lighter wood tone inside. You can seal the interior if you prefer (and it’s probably a good idea for durability), but I chose to leave mine natural. More because of laziness than preference! ha!
Once the cabinet was in place, I secured the bottom and top sections together using clamps. Then Tyler stepped in to screw it into the studs for me, he’s super tall and I’m definitely not, so it worked out perfectly! And can we take a moment to appreciate Tyler working in his basketball shorts and cowboy boots? Tell me that’s not a look – sexy!
Next, I built the next cabinet. This one is a tall, skinny cabinet designed with shelves, so it lines up with the narrower lower cabinet beneath it. Since this cabinet is on the top and the raw plywood edges would be visible, I covered the exposed areas with edge banding to give it a cleaner, more finished look. Installing edge banding is super easy. It comes with heat-activated glue on the back, so all you have to do is position it on the plywood edge and run an iron over it to set it in place. Once it’s adhered, just trim off the excess with a razor knife for a clean finish. Then just sand the edges to make sure it’s smooth. Make sure you choose edge banding that matches the type of wood you’re working with. For example, I used oak edge banding to match my oak plywood and face frame.
Since this cabinet has shelves, I added edge banding to the front edges of each one for a finished look. Because the cabinet is so narrow, my drill wouldn’t fit inside to drive in the pocket hole screws I normally use for shelf installation. (Those pocket holes are visible from the inside, but they don’t really draw much attention. You do want the pocket holes on the bottom, they are stronger that way.) To work around the tight space, I used my 90-degree drill bit, and it worked perfectly.
I also haven’t mentioned one of my favorite tricks for installing shelves. I cut four pieces of scrap wood to the same length and use them as spacers for the shelf to rest on while I screw it into place. This makes it so much easier to get the shelves installed evenly and at the exact same height.
I thought about installing this cabinet while Tyler was at work, but he told me to wait, he was worried I might drop it on the new laundry unit! I did bring it inside, though, and set it on top of the lower cabinet. For now, I’m using a makeshift countertop on that lower cabinet made from a scrap piece of plywood.
You can also see that I stained the bottom and lower side of the cabinet, just the parts that would be visible once it was installed. At this point, I was running low on oak plywood, so on the left side I pieced in some of the less expensive plywood and joined it with pocket holes alongside the oak. I didn’t want to buy another full 4×8 sheet just for that small section!
Once Tyler got home, we measured and cut down a scrap 2×4 to use as a support. It held the cabinet in place while we screwed it into the side of the right cabinet and anchored it to the studs in the back wall.
And then it was time to build the very last cabinet! I measured how tall I wanted it, keeping in mind that it needed to be shorter than the previous one so there would be enough space between the bottom of the cabinet and the countertop to hang clothes underneath. With our 9.5-foot ceilings, that meant this cabinet was going to sit super high. The hanging rod underneath is mainly for Tyler, he can reach it easily, but it’s way out of my reach without a step stool. This piece only needed oak plywood on the bottom luckily! And more edge banding.
Tyler went out for a bike ride, but as soon as he got back, he dropped what he was doing, like the good assistant….I mean husband…he is, to help me get that last cabinet installed. We secured it to the side of the middle cabinet and anchored it to the studs on the back and left wall. And yes… isn’t he cute in his riding kit?
This laundry room post is getting pretty long, so I’m going to break it into four parts. In the next post, I’ll walk you through how I built the face frames, how I added a custom wall treatment (hint: I’ve done it before!), and how I built and installed an oak drawer for my Tineco vacuum and mop. Stay tuned for my storage and organization dreams to come to life!
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